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HJS Studio Patterns
WW II Pattern FAQ |
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Holly Shaltz, Fiberist |
I have received a large number of emails over the years asking various questions about these patterns that primarily have to do with either wanting basic knitting information or modifying these patterns to create different desired results, especially larger sizes. Since I can't possibly provide basic knitting instruction on this site, which to my mind includes adjusting a pattern for a different size, how to pick up stitches, and the like, here's a FAQ to answer as many questions as possible at one time. Please don't send me questions like how to make a tassel and attach it to a hat. If you can't figure it out, just google it! You'll be surprised how many hits you get.
Will you knit this (fill in the blank) for me? In a word, NO :) I don't have the time or desire (or the strength of wrist!) to knit items for sale. Feel free to take the pattern to your local knitting store or knitting group to see if one of the people there will knit it for you. Please be prepared to pay a reasonable amount for this skilled service. Knitters should equate at least to plumbers in pay!
What if I can't quite understand the pattern? I copied these pattern verbatim from the original Bucilla booklet number 318. Typos may have crept in (indeed, I'm finding and correcting lots as I prepare the .pdf version of each pattern); feel free to contact me if you think that's the case and it affects your understanding of the pattern.
But as far as unclear instructions go, I'm not responsible for that. You should take the pattern to your local yarn store or knitting group or other local knitting reference to help you figure it out. If you feel you've come up with a better way to do, or explain, a given pattern, you can certain let me know and, if I agree with you, I will add your clarification to the website, with credit to you, unless you'd rather not have that done.
I can't find this yarn anywhere, what can I substitute? Most of the yarns in the WWII patterns were made by Bucilla, which I haven't seen available in yarn stores for years. Some also mention Lion Brand, which is still available in craft-type stores, not usually yarn stores. But each pattern specifies a size of yarn as well as a specific brand: worsted weight, sport weight, sock-and-sweater weight, etc. These are equivalent to modern US yarn weights. In all cases, simply check your yarn and needle choices against the gauge! A gauge of 5 stitches per inch / 2.5 cm is going to be worsted weight yarn, for example, so start swatching with the needle size you would use with that weight of yarn. Sport weight is usually 6, sometimes 7 stitches, and fingering or sock-and-sweater weight generally 8 stitches. Likewise, feel free to substitute handspun yarns. Just be sure you get the gauge you need for the pattern in question.
And how much yarn is in a "skein"? Generally speaking, worsted weight yarn was in 4 ounce / 115 gram skeins back then. One modern skein of 3.5 ounces / 100 grams for each original skein might work, but it's usually safer to buy all the yarn needed at one time, and of one dyelot. Check with your store to see if they will accept returns of intact skeins with receipt, and how long the option will be open. Orphan skeins of discontinued colors or dyelots no longer current can be a pain for a store to accept. As for the fingering and sport weight skeins, your guess is as good as mine :) I think sport weight was usually in 2 ounce / 56 gram quantities, and fingering was often sold in 1 ounce / 28 gram skeins. Again, consider buying extra to be on the safe side. You can also refer to more modern patterns for similar styles (make sure the gauge is the same, but don't worry about specified needle sizes) and buy the amount recommended there. Handspun is, as always, a whole 'nuther issue. Most handspun yarn is much fluffier, less dense, than commercial yarn of similar weight. So, most of the time, if you spin the same weight of fiber, you'll probably be OK, unless you're substituting fiber that's not at least mostly wool. If so, buy more fiber than the weight of yarn called for in the pattern, to be on the safe side--I would guess 25-50 percent more, depending on how dense your fiber mix is.
How can a knitter use a needle size of 12 with sport weight or fingering weight yarn? Some of the needle sizes specified in these patterns, particularly for lightweight sock-and-sweater (fingering or sock) yarn, are much larger numbers than we're accustomed to today. It's just using the old system of numbering needles that was still used for steel double-pointed sock-type needles back then. No big deal, just look at the gauge and choose appropriate needles of today's sizes to swatch with. If you normally use size 1 US needles, for example, to knit 8 stitches to the inch, or size 2.25 mm to knit 32 stitches to 10 cm, then start your swatching with those needles when the pattern gauge is 8 stitches to the inch.
You keep talking about gauge, but what if there isn't one? For things like simple hats and scarves, the gauge isn't always specified. Look at the type of yarn and just start knitting with whatever needle size you usually like to use with that yarn. It will probably come out just fine :)
How do I (fill in the blank with desired knitting skill)? Your first best option is to visit your local yarn store. They have a vested interest in helping you develop knitting skills, because then they can sell you more yarn and patterns! If you don't have a knitting store sufficiently local to get to, try to locate a knitting group or guild, or a spinning/weaving guild in your area. Even if their meetings are too far away or inconvenient to attend, some members are likely to live nearby, and most fiber folk are more than willing to help another over a tricky spot. If you have trouble finding a local group, try googling for a state-wide knitting or weaving organization in your state. Most states have state-level weaving groups, for example, that often list individual weaving and spinning guilds, which in turn can help you connect with knitters. Assuming you've tried the above unsuccessfully, try posting on one of the many fiber lists. My personal favorite is Fibernet, now located on Yahoo. The members are very happy to share their skills with others. You can also post your location, and chances are pretty good you'll find some knitters closer than you think! Books are a great way to pick up knitting skills, too. Go to your local library and look through the craft section, or buy a good book (preferably from your local yarn store or independent book store!). Even if you think you "can't" learn from books, give it a try. Follow the pictures if the words don't seem to make sense. And there's a wonderful array of websites with great instructions in knitting. Try googling the technique you're having trouble with. You'll be amazed at what pops up--you'll learn probably several new things, and be inspired by the many projects you see pictured.
How do I make the finished item larger or smaller than the given size? People do tend to be larger today than nearly 70 years ago! A pattern that is very simply designed may sometimes be adjust up in size either by using a heavier yarn or larger needles--in other words, decreasing the number of stitches per inch / cm in your gauge swatch. For items that require some serious shaping, like set-in sleeves (I don't think there's such a pattern, but I'm not sure :), you really should do a sketch of paper and adjust all increasing or decreasing--if you're not up to that, go to your local yarn store, etc, as noted above, for help. Adjusting down in size might be a little easier--in this case you want more stitches per inch / cm in your gauge swatch, and sometimes that can be done by just using smaller needles or slightly finer yarn. Can I copy your pattern to put in my guild newsletter or use as a teaching handout? These are not my patterns and I can't give you permission for anything other than personal use. I provide them here as a service to those who are interested in historical knitting, re-enactors, etc. |